Dinosaur National Monument: A Secluded Oasis Full of History

 

In May, I took a solo trip to Dinosaur National Monument. It was on my list of places to explore since I first moved to Colorado in 2003. Finally, I was able to make the trek and it was well worth it! I was in a place of needing some alone time, as well as, soul refreshment. The drive from Denver up toward the northwest corner of Colorado took about six hours. I checked in and found my spot at the Green River Campground. It was a peaceful setting, situated next to the river with views of Split Mountain Canyon toward the northwest. It was an idyllic spot (especially since I got there on Thursday night before the weekend crowd). At night, shadows of campers sitting around their campfires reflected above me in the branches of the cottonwood grove. I was quickly reminded of the Fremont people who once lived here, leaving stories carved along rock walls nearby.

(Cub Creek Petroglyphs)

 

In the morning, I drove over to the Quarry Visitor Center and Quarry Exhibit Hall. My eyes widened as I entered the exhibit hall and immediately began to decipher an entire wall of well-preserved dinosaur fossils stacked on top of each other. One of the most intact dinosaur skulls in the world is located here, Allosaurus fragilis.

 

(Replica of Allosaurus fragilis)

 

(Part of the fossil wall located inside of the Quarry Exhibit Hall)
 

This wall was actually a part of a sandstone foothill, where in 1909, Earl Douglass found several dinosaur bones sticking out of the ground. He then continued his research efforts in conjunction with the Carnegie Museum in Pittsburgh, PA. In 1915, Dinosaur National Monument was created to protect this fossil bed. Today, visitors can view over 1,500 bones ranging from Allosaurus, Camarasaurus, Stegosaurus (the Colorado State fossil), and others.

Later, I spent some time hiking along several of the park trails looking for petroglyphs and wide open spaces. Eventually, I ventured down toward Josie Morris's cabin (pictured below). Josie, an independent woman, built her own cabin here in 1913. She lived off the land, planted vegetables, tended the ranch, and lived and died here over fifty years later. Today, visitors can step inside her humble abode and envision what life may have been like for Josie.



(Josie Bassett Morris's cabin)

 

Dinosaur National Monument is situated so that half of the park is in Utah and the other portion in Colorado. Interestingly, there is no public knowledge of any dinosaur fossils on the Colorado side. So, if fossils are your interest then you must make your way to Jensen, Utah. On the Colorado side of the monument, is where I felt most secluded. The views were expansive and I had the chance to feel like I was the only one on the planet. I found the perfect spot to sit, ponder, and adjust my bearings for whatever life brings next.

(Thank you NPS for preserving such beautiful landscapes and natural history!)

 

(View from Echo Park Overlook on the Colorado side)

 

The park is huge. On my next visit I hope to visit the Gates of Lodore area, raft along the Yampa or Green Rivers, and hike a few more trails.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lair O' The Bear

If you've lived in Denver for any length of time, chances are you have probably hiked in an area of open space called Lair O' The Bear. This recreational area is located just past the towns of Evergreen and Kittredge, about 45 minutes directly west of Denver.

This park offers a handful of hiking trails, as well as, multi-use trails. So, bring your mountain bike and enjoy the beauty of the foothills! There are several picnic areas and there is also a stream that flows the entire distance of the park. What I like about this area is that you have the option of either hiking along more of a flat terrain, or hiking along more inclined trails. It's nice to have the choice of either a leisurely stroll versus an intensive hike.

When you're done here, you can head into Evergreen and grab some refreshments and/or live music at a place called Little Bear Western Saloon and Restaurant. Little Bear seems to be the place where most of the locals hang out. The town of Evergreen has a huge lake to enjoy as well as some cute shops. So, come on--go explore!



*Originally posted: 9/11/07.
* Updated 7/29/16

Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge

When I first visited Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge, I wondered why they called it an arsenal. Come to find out that during World War 2 the arsenal was a chemical weapons manufacturing plant for the United States government. Later, the site was used for agricultural chemical development by Shell Chemical Co. In the 1980's, a cleanup of the area was initiated.

 

 Now, Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and used as a wildlife refuge. The refuge boasts as home to bald eagles (seasonal), burrowing owls (seasonal), bison, coyotes, prairie dogs, and many other species of fauna and flora. There is a lake for catch-and-release fishing (fee required) and several trails for hiking. There is a newly built visitor center with a mini museum of the site's history and wildlife. There are also guided naturalist tours and programs. Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge is a close, urban escape into nature.

* I recently found out that the best time to see bald eagles at this site is from Dec. to March. Also, the best time to see burrowing owls is from May to August.

**(Updated: 7/20/16.  Original post was 9/13/11) The arsenal recently introduced 32 black footed ferrets into the refuge. In addition, they have a new outdoor exhibit featuring a resident black footed ferret. However, the little guy was hiding underground while I was visiting. Black footed ferrets are a keystone species and have been endangered. Several States are trying to reintroduce the species in hopes of population growth.

On Top of the World: Trail Ridge Road

People and cars look as small as ants when on top of the world.

One of the most scenic drives in all of Colorado is definitely Trail Ridge Road, driving between Estes Park and Grand Lake.

 

I usually find myself singing along to the Dixie Chicks' song 'Top of the World' (toward the end where it starts to build and crescendo...more of an overcast day song) or any of James Taylor's tracks... as I traverse this high mountain road full of beauty and mountain views. Every which way you look as you approach the top, are myriads of mountain peaks, sky, and craggy open space.

 

 

This is probably my favorite drive in all of Colorado.

 

Just the facts, Ma'am:

 

• Generally takes about 1.5 to 2 hours (depending on how often you stop for photo-ops) to drive from one end to the other.
• 11 miles of road are above treeline in the alpine tundra.
• 200 species of alpine plants. Very fragile ecosystem. Please stay on trails as these plants especially take much longer to grow back if trampled.
• Trail Ridge Road crosses the Continental Divide at Milner Pass (elevation 10,120 feet).
• The highest point on the road is 12,183 feet (east of the Alpine Visitor Center).
• Look for wildlife such as marmots, pika, and ptarmigan who live in the arid, wintry alpine tundra environment.
• You can often see other wildlife such as deer, elk, bighorn sheep, and moose along the way.
• It is only open all the way through from late Spring to early Fall.
• To check road status call: 970-586-1222.

 

Other Highlights Along the Way:

• The Alpine Visitor Center is a nice destination once you get to the top. There is a café and snack counter if you want some refreshments, as well as, the main gift shop/souvenir center inside the park. There is a short trail just beside the parking lot if you want to stretch your legs. However, due to the altitude and wind you may prefer to chill and sip hot cocoa inside.
• Old Fall River Road is a one-way (up only) road on the east side that will take you to the Alpine Visitor Center. It generally opens around July 4th. It is a narrow, gravel road with a 15 mph speed limit. Be advised. Check road conditions to be sure road is open.
• Hike along the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail or
• Take a tour of Holzwarth Historic Site, near Grand Lake. Hike about half a mile to the old cabin.
• On the east side, just after the treeline stops, walk in the footsteps of the Ute Amerindians along the Ute Trail.
• The Bear Lake Road trailheads can fill up fast in the summertime. If you don't want the hassle of trying to find a parking spot there are free park shuttle buses. Highly recommended.

 

Be Aware:

 

Due to the high elevation be sure to stay hydrated and be aware of altitude sickness symptoms.

 

Even if the temperature is 80 degrees in Grand Lake or Estes it is always cool (if not cold) and generally windy up above treeline.

 

Trail Ridge Road and Old Fall River Road are narrow, high mountain roads. Use Caution.

Be prepared for the possibility of fast moving weather systems.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Enjoy the views.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colorado Adventure Ideas--Summer 2016

I thought I would share some of the items remaining on my Colorado bucket list. Perhaps others might also be interested in some of these adventures.

(Click on the highlighted portions for links)

Ride the Rails
Several Railroad lines offer tours or rides. Here are four options in or near Denver:

Georgetown Loop Railroad

Leadville Colorado and Southern Railroad

Amtrak train from Denver to Glenwood Springs (Roundtrip)

Cog Railroad


Gold Mine Tours

Everett and Lebanon Mines- The Georgetown Loop Railroad can drop you off.

Molly Kathleen Mine- Located in Cripple Creek, Colorado. $20/adult. $12/kids.

Argo Gold Mine--Located in Idaho Springs, Colorado. $16/adult and $8/kids.



Hike a 14er

For beginners:

Mt. Sherman-This is the one I hope to summit sometime soon. Two reasons: 1) There is an old mine at the base 2) One of the "easier" ones to start with.

Mt. Bierstadt- Located in a popular area and also noted as a good "starter" climb.


Hike Parts of the Colorado Trail

There are 28 segments that make up the Colorado Trail. If you can't hike the whole thing...maybe try section by section. I've only casually hiked along 3 sections. Hoping to add more as time goes by.

Explore More Colorado History

Daniel-Fisher Tower Tour-At one point this clock tower was the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Tours offered on Saturdays. Cool historical/architectural tour.
Holzwarth historic site located on the Grand Lake side of Rocky Mountain National Park.
Bent's Old Fort- Travel back in time to the mid-1800s during the fur trade along the Sante Fe Trail.
Sand Creek Massacre Site-(Located near Bent's Old Fort site) Remember and honor a tragic event in American history...site where a group of Cheyenne and Arapahoe Amerindians were killed.
Dinosaur National Monument- One of Colorado's National Park Monument sites. Come and see dinosaur fossils and bone quarries.

Go Off-Roading!
A sample of jeep outfitters:

Colorado Jeep Tours

Backbone Adventures

Mountain High Rentals


Rent a Pontoon Boat for an afternoon

I've been wanting to do this for a long time. Maybe this summer it will happen!
Boat rentals for Lake Dillon: see Lake Dillon Boathouse


Get out and explore, y'all!! Happy summering!!

Pinewood Reservoir: A Cozy Campground By The Lake

Last summer some friends and I "discovered" Pinewood Reservoir Campground.

View from my tent (site #27). Lake in the background.
 

 

 We wanted a site next to water so that we could bring our kayaks. This was the perfect spot! The campground was fairly secluded and with a nice tree canopy for most of the sites. The next best thing: water! We were able to camp and kayak whenever we wanted. It was great.

Most of the tent sites were walk-in sites. We parked in the parking lot and had to make several trips to the car but otherwise it was the perfect campsite. There were vault toilets and water spigots available. Swimming is only allowed at the swim beach area but we did see people wading (and by people, I might mean our group).

At night we heard coyotes howling from across the lake. And during the day we enjoyed the trees, water, and sunshine. A very relaxing getaway! We will definitely be back!

**I recommend sites 27, 18, and 19. But they all looked decent.

My good friend made a homemade key lime pie to enjoy around the campfire!
 

Reservations:

Strongly recommended if going on the weekend!
Click HERE for the Larimer County camping reservations.
Entrance and camping permits are required.

Directions:

Interestingly enough you will pass a few other reservoirs on your way to Pinewood Reservoir. Carter Lake was huge and had several boat and jet ski rentals. Horsetooth Reservoir is also not too far. You will eventually follow a 4 mile road with a decent grade at times (fairly narrow). Just when you start to think you may have passed it...you will find it. When we went there wasn't much of a sign...but once you pass Carter Lake and Flatiron Reservoir...it will be the next one on the left...after about 10 minutes from Flatiron Reservoir....a small, cozy campground on a secluded lake.

The directions below were quite accurate when coming from Denver.

Take I-25 to Berthoud Exit (Exit 250). Turn left (West) onto Highway 56 and continue for 9.5 miles, passing through town of Berthoud. At the foothills, the road will turn sharply to the right (north). Turn Left (west) onto County Road 8E and continue for 3 miles to the entrance station where you can purchase permits. Follow County Road 8E west to the intersection with County Road 31 and continue around the lake for 5.5 miles to the intersection and County Road 18E. Turn left (west) and continue about 4.5 miles to the lake.

Excursion of the Week: Colorado Springs Highlights

[ Caveat: I have posted about Garden of the gods and Helen Hunt Falls previously but it is time for an update. Also, the info on the Colorado Mountain Brewery and Cave of the Winds is new.]

(Garden of the gods as viewed from main Visitor Center)

Hike: Garden of the gods:

One of my favorite places to visit for a fun, casual hike is Garden of the gods in Colorado Springs, CO. Situated beneath the towering backdrop of Pikes Peak, Garden of the gods is home to red sandstone formations that appear like pinnacles and shark fins amid the park trails. One of my favorite trails is the Spring Canyon Trailhead, where you can hike to the Siamese Twins formations. There is a signature photo op, where if you bend down on one knee you can get a shot of your family in the hole of the rock formation with Pikes Peak in the background. (One of my favorite Colorado photo shots.)

(views)

 

There is a visitor center just outside the main entrance (on the east side) and also a gift shop with some cool art inside the park. At the main visitor center I recommend watching the 20 minute introductory video--quite informative about the geology and cultural history. The park is made up basically of a loop that you can drive around and then park at various trails or sites. The park is relatively small and makes for a good half-day experience. One of the great things about this park is that the entrance is free. And there are a ton of beautiful picnic spots!

Site Seeing: Manitou Springs, CO

(downtown Manitou Springs)

 

Garden of the gods is located in Colorado Springs but is also adjacent to another cute mountain town named Manitou Springs. (I have mentioned this gem before as well but it bares repeating: if you go to Garden of the gods, you must drive through Manitou Springs!). Manitou Springs is a cute town with a gritty, hippie vibe. It is also where you travel through to climb the famous Incline (literally an incline made of steps that traverse the side of a mountain...healthy, aerobic types seem to find this a fun activity of choice...for some reason), and is also home to the North Pole (a holiday point of interest), and the gateway to Pikes Peak and the Cog Railway.

For lodging in Manitou: read my post on Avenue Hotel Bed and Breakfast
For local pub feel check out happy hour at The Keg.



Hike: Helen Hunt Falls

Another personal favorite hike/picnic spot of mine is Helen Hunt Falls. Toward the base of Cheyenne Mountain, along North Cheyenne Canyon Rd., is a lovely, narrow road that leads you beside a river and high canyon walls. Eventually you will come to a pullout area and a sign that says Helen Hunt Falls. There is a small waterfall that you can see from the road with a trail that ascends above and past this first waterfall. This second waterfall area was an expansive rockface with a small watershed.The hike is short but steep in areas. The area here is what I enjoy--the sound of water and surrounded by trees. Perfect for a picnic and short hike.

Eat and Drink: Colorado Mountain Brewery

 

After a full day of hiking and site-seeing, head on over to the Colorado Mountain Brewery in Colorado Springs. This place is awesome! An old train station converted into a craft brewery/restaurant. The feel is cozy-upscale but suitable for jeans and t-shirt (as is most of Colorado, thank goodness).

I enjoyed a perfectly cooked steak filet and a serving of bread pudding that made me feel as though I were in the deep south instead of out west. It is definitely a popular place so make reservations if you aren't the patient type.





             But seriously, check this place out sometime!








Site-Seeing: Cave of the Winds

 About ten minutes northwest of Garden of the gods is Cave of the Winds. It seemed a bit touristy at first with all of the gift items shoved in my face but I really enjoyed the tour! Cave of the Winds is a large underground cave full of stalactites and stalagmites. There are varying "types" of tours and it seems the lantern tour would be quite fun! (I did the regular tour due to time schedule). If you can handle being underground and in often close confinements, I would definitely recommend booking a tour! Very fun and educational!

(Inside the cave, a group of stalagmites in the background. One of the longest recorded stalactites in the foreground).

(No, we didn't get to swing down into the cave! But I guess this used to be an old entrance)

Lodging: Cheyenne Mountain Resort

 

Cheyenne Mountain Resort: Nestled at the base of Cheyenne Mountain, with mountain views and decent rooms!



Also, because I am a huge National Park enthusiast....I can't mention this region without also mentioning (again) that Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument is just about 46 minutes northwest of Colorado Springs...another really cool place to visit. It often gets overlooked by Colorado's other National Parks/Monuments.  Check out my post: here.

Lessons I Learned While Hiking Through The Narrows

Hiking the Narrows: A Refresher Course on Life 

By: J. Foster 

As a recreational hiker and nature-enthusiast I frequently read outdoorsy magazines and enjoy researching cool, earthy places. For the past several years I have had Zion National Park’s, Narrows, at the top of my to-do list. After seeing a picture of two hikers trekking through the high-walled canyon, I was immediately compelled to follow in their soaking, wet footsteps.  

Several months ago, my hiking buddy and I began planning an epic road trip from Denver, CO to Mt. Carmel, UT with the Narrows as the ultimate goal. We took the southern route going down through southwest Colorado and up through southeastern Utah. We saw many attractions along the way but my spirit was most fulfilled accomplishing this bottom-up, half-day hike.   

After preparing our dry bags and finalizing our footwear choices, we entered Zion National Park. We parked at the Visitor Center and waited for the park shuttle to transport us to the Temple of Sinawava, the last stop on the line. This stop is where the Riverwalk Trail begins, a paved trail shrouded in lush habitation that follows the Virgin River and eventually leads into a deep, narrow canyon. Thus, the Narrows hike begins.  

We arrived at the trailhead at 10:30a.m, an hour and a half later than we intended but it did not deter us. Eight hours later, at 6:30pm, we arrived back where we started. Those eight hours hiking over rocks and small boulders, through a steady river flow taught me a lot about myself. It also reaffirmed several key lessons about life. Here are some reflections from our trip. 
 

*The processes of life are all around us.  

At the very start of our hike, just after the first bend in the river, we started to smell an alarmingly foul smell. I started having conversations with myself about how over-used such trails and parks have become, chalking up the odor to people not packing out their human waste. However, as I looked down and to the left, inside one of the first carved out openings that set back from the water there were maggots on the bottom of the rock wall. Of course, maggots symbolize death so as Rebekah and I looked to see what was decaying, we quickly saw the remains of a dead, rotting deer.  I imagine that the poor thing must have wandered into the canyon and got swept away by a flash flood, coming to rest where we now stood. Of course, this was not the most pleasant way to start out our adventure but later on in the day this experience took on new meaning; almost as clear as an Aesop fable.  

Throughout the hike we were surrounded constantly by three elements: rock, sand, and water. The entire canyon was a visual reminder of process, change, and the power of water. We observed the way the canyon walls curved and were carved, the way some rocks were smooth and others porous (Rebekah’s favorite word) from water’s presence. What is life but time and pressure? What is life but the processes of  burgeoning and decaying?  

At the very end of our awesome journey, as we walked with sore hips and tight quads back to the shuttle we came across a large deer, feeding on the bushes about six feet away from us. This lone deer noticed us and continued to feed on leaves, letting us watch. It was a striking end to the day…beginning the trek with death at our feet and ending the day with life and nourishment. The cycles of life are all around us.  

As we rode the shuttle back to the Visitor Center, I couldn’t help but overhear the people next to us. A lady who looked in her early forties, who was from Michigan, was talking with a woman in her sixties about all of the National Parks they have seen and hikes they still want to do. When the subject of retirement came up, the younger woman stated, “I think you just have to do it now. We aren’t promised retirement. You never know how much time you have.” 
 

*New Adventures Create Opportunities to Conquer Self-doubt 

As eager and excited as I was to participate in this uniquely beautiful and slightly challenging hike, I had moments of wondering if I was overestimating my abilities. Of course, taking a self-assessment is wise when undertaking such adventures but sometimes our inner critic can often judge too harshly.  

During the hike there were moments when my anxiety reared its head. Moments when a three feet width of river suddenly started to cause me panic (even hours into the hike, after already trekking through rushing portions of the same current). At times the dialogue in my head began asking such questions as: Am I going to fall? Can I make it? But I reminded myself that not only can I do this but, in fact, have been doing it for a few hours now.  

I remember reading some of the writings of Chris McCandless in my favorite book Into The Wild where he says, 

”…And I also know how important it is in life not necessarily to be strong but to feel strong, to measure yourself at least once in the most ancient of human conditions, facing blind, deaf stone alone, with nothing to help you but your own hands and your own head.” 

I took a deep breath and cautiously but with determination put one foot in front of the other, giving a silent middle finger to the voices of self-doubt. The feeling of accomplishment I felt as we walked out of the Narrows will stick with me the rest of my life.  

 

 

*Adventures Are Better When Shared 

Continuing the theme of Chris McCandless writings, he wrote in his journal toward the end of his life: “happiness is only real when shared.” And I must concur. 

I’ve always been an independent person (mostly) and I have done solo hikes and solo trips before. But there is something about having a friend or fellow traveler along that makes the moments richer and altogether more fun. I mean, every few minutes while hiking the Narrrows we had to stop and just say out loud, “Whoa! Look at the beauty” or some variation thereof. I imagine if either of us had been hiking solo people would of thought us mad, as we stopped to proclaim the beauty so exuberantly before us.  

But seriously, the laughs, the talks, and the shared experiences add to the enjoyment of the journey. And such is life….But even more, there will always be another soul with flesh on somewhere on this spinning globe that will know exactly what I mean when I say: remember when?  

 

 

*One Hike: Two Different Experiences 

The half-day, bottom up hike is one where you can only hike so far before you have to turn around and head back the same way you came (unless you have a special permit). On the way up the Narrows the sun was shining mostly directly down upon us. The canyon was bright and sunbeams danced all around us. On the return hike, the sun was less direct and the canyon became less illuminated. Thus, the canyons own natural colors became more visible. The river became more greenish-blue. Instead of sunbeams dancing it was now shadows that danced before us. Both directions were beautiful. Both directions offered different experiences; something I wasn’t expecting.  

I am reminded that sometimes I miss things the first time around.  

Sometimes I misjudge people. Sometimes I turn off my mind before the ride is over. Or I close my eyes before the real performance begins. If I had kept my eyes down on the return hike, thinking that I had seen it all before, I would have missed out on the canyons true beauty. 

 I must remember to keep my eyes open. And to remember that the elements of surprise and wonder may just be around the corner…even if it is a path I have already journeyed.  
 

*Sometimes it is helpful to plan your steps. Sometimes it is helpful to go with the flow.  

The river showed me things about myself.  

Besides bringing to the surface bits of self-doubt it also showed me parts of my personality and that of my hiking buddy.  

There were numerous times when we had to criss-cross the river due to boulders or one side being more or less rushing than the other. About twenty minutes into the hike I began to develop my own system of navigating the hike for myself. I would look upstream and see what was coming and where the white water was so that I could go around (if possible) the more powerful currents. The river became like a chess board as I tried to think two steps ahead. My hiking buddy was fearless. I noticed her several times taking on the river in sections where I chose to go to the left but she was chill with going to the right side. She was spontaneous and fierce; taking the river as it came to her.  

I believe life is best lived when balanced between these two approaches: planning and spontaneity. I must be mindful of how I tread and yet if I try to plan out every step I will certainly take all of the joy out of life (not to mention be very frustrated when unforeseen events occur). I must also learn to go with the flow.  

Like the river, I must remember that I am strong. But I must learn to bend. It is okay to have both deep and shallow moments. And it is okay to let people in.